Tuesday, July 19, 2005

Impressions of Germany

Written Monday, July 18, 2005 on the plane home

While we ate Indian curry in Berlin last night, Mark and I made a list of impressions of Germany. We take credit or blame for our opinions and do not mean them as generalizations about the whole country, and as we get to know Germany better, we may change our minds.

Our first impression was of efficiency.
When we arrived at Tegel Airport, we had to walk no further than the end of the jet way to have our passports checked and to claim our luggage since the baggage claim area is attached to each gate. The same thing happened today as we checked in; the security check took place at our gate. The only line we had was the passengers on our flight. Having just read a USA Today article about waits in US airports, we wonder why the model of this airport might not work for other cities.

The apartment key opened the building’s entrance, the mailbox, and the apartment itself--no separate keys to easily forget or lose.

The windows in our hotels folded out two ways. We could open the window to the inside of the room for full air or open just the top to let air in at night. The same thing happened with the patio door, so that it was either a door or an air vent.

We found the Germans very bike-friendly. Berlin and Garmische both have bike paths on most all of the roads, and when I once accidentally walked in that lane, the woman yelled at me for being in the way and didn’t I know better? People of all ages use bicycles to shop, to go to work, to go to the market, to pick up groceries to put in their bike baskets, to transport their children, and to perform numerous other functions in addition to biking for exercise. We could not get over the number of bikers who biked in the rain, holding their umbrellas with one hand as they steered with the other. Today we saw a young man using his cell phone (they call them “handys”) while biking. The bicycles are sturdy mountain bikes; it was rare to encounter thin wheeled bikes. So Mark had a good time with his fold-up bike.

Germans are very active in the out-of-doors. In addition to biking, there were hikers of all ages along our paths in the Alps. Most impressive were the women in their late 70s whom we met at our hotel who came from Frankfurt to hike for two weeks in Garmische, something they do every year. With about 15 major ski lifts operating in the area, it is possible to make any hike a downhill hike. At Wank, for example, we rode up and hiked down. We saw runners, and when we visited the gyms which are everywhere, we saw active men and women. The German women that I met were no nonsense people, strong and full of determination.

Mores are also different. Yesterday on our way to dinner, we saw two teenagers drinking from a wine bottle as they walked on the sidewalk, something that does not happen in the US, but especially in Pikeville, Kentucky. Nudity in unisex saunas and steam baths (only one sauna for both men and women) is accepted without comment, and the modesty with which we are familiar does not work. Mark even saw men sunbathing naked in a section of the gym where he worked out (of course they were blocked from view by walls, so people on the outside would not be able to see them).

We were told that Berlin has a large gay population, but we rarely encountered gay couples, at least not as much as we might in New York.

The cabbies were unusually polite and patient with us. We needed drinks for our picnic yesterday, and the cabbie, Norbert, stopped at a gas station on the way to our final destination so that Mark could purchase them. While he was gone, I asked Norbert about the age of his Mercedes cab (nine years and really clean), and he remarked about the proliferation of “one-stop markets” in Berlin. Last night, another cabbie got out of the car to open my door when we arrived at the restaurant. The cabbies drive at a leisurely pace (their driving is neither jerky nor rough) and their English and our map pointing were good enough that we communicated easily.

On the first hike we took at Eibsee Lake, no one that we passed would respond to our greeting either in German or English, so we just started believing that there was no custom of returning a greeting. But when we were hiking down from Wank, everyone whom we passed said, “Dat’s Gute,” which sounds like, “That’s good,” but we never did find out what it meant and were just happy that they returned our greeting. Generally people were friendly but not overly so, but we found no one impolite.

Having been in the movie theater three times to see Garden State and Wedding Crashers, we noticed the routine differed from ours. Before the feature begins, there are numerous filmed ads for beer, cigarettes, liquor, food, and ice cream. Then they turn the lights back on, and a man comes in selling ice cream bars. If you want something else, you go out to the concession stand in plenty of time to see the lights turned back off, one or two more beer ads, previews, and finally the main feature. Of course, the concessionaires also sell beer, wine, and liquor. As an aside: anywhere you can buy penny candy or snacks at gas stations or candy stores, you can also buy a variety of alcoholic beverages. They sit side by side.

Something bothersome was the smoking everywhere—it was rare that we had the choice of a nonsmoking section in restaurants, and the café tables were so close that if someone were smoking, it was sure to come your way. Many young people smoke, and of course there are massive amounts of beer drinking, even as early as 10 in the morning. In mostly older men (35+), we saw beer bellies and some men with red blotched skin.

Another remarkable thing about Germany, especially Berlin but also in Garmische is the number of sports cars. Since Mark has his eye on purchasing one, he noticed every make and model, and nowhere that we have traveled have we seen so many. Related to that is the speed on the autobahn. I was driving 120 km/hr (about 75 mph) and Mark about 140 (90 mph), and people were whizzing by us!

Visiting Germany for three weeks was a way for us to get to know a culture different than our own and than France to which we have traveled more frequently. It was this interplay of cultures which made the trip so good, and if we return to Germany next year, I hope to learn a little more German, bring a pocket translator, and ask a few more questions so that I can learn more about this great country.

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Kathy, it sounds like you and Mark fell in love with Germany! What a great trip! I look forward to hearing more when I see you next week!

Love
Pat

7/30/2005 11:10:00 AM  
Blogger sca said...

I'm from Germany, actually working in Seoul/South Korea as a teacher for german language.

I enjoyed your report about your roundtrip in Germany very much, because of the different point of view. It's always a new experience if I read articles by foreigners about my homecountry. Thanks for that!

BTW, the hikers in the Bavarian Alps said "Grüß Gott", it's a typical greeting in South Germany and it means "Greetings to god" or "God bless you" or something like that. The Bavarians have a very strong accent that's why it sounded for you like "Dats Gude".

6/21/2006 09:47:00 AM  

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